Dear Me,
It's so strange to get back together after so long. I’m using a fake Mont Blanc pen to scribble in you. From Orussey Market – 20 dollars only, after some bargaining.
Do I still have my old journal? Will have to hunt for it. Hope no one's looked through it. Hope there’s no incriminating stuff.
I know I took a break... I shouldn’t have... when my marriage unravelled and Amma, and then Appa, died. They always told me to be strong, but...
I saw ‘his’ sister the other day. Didn’t have a choice. My cousin asked me to visit and attend church with her and who did we see looking at us in shock from a crowded pew near the door – the He Devil's very own evil sibling.
My cousin Roma smiled at her and, despite there being other vacant spots in the crowded church, sat next to my former sister in law. What an uncomfortable Sunday service it was.
When I asked Roma why she did that, she said, “That was the best spot in church – right under the fan and the doorway next to us if we wanted to leave early. Plus, I wanted to piss her off!”
I need to take a page out of Roma's book – to teach people that good manners doesn’t mean weakness.
Anyway, here I am now with Fish, Genie, Nobby and Donny, a new friend from the North Pole. That’s an interesting story and you might have wanted to be there – in the thick of it. I did have a good Christmas – the ‘family’ turned up – and now I'm having a better New Year. Genie has taken us to Cambodia. He says it is his New Year’s gift to us. So be it. What a lovely gift.
We were led to believe we were going up in a deadbeat World War 1 Fokker, but Genie played us. Scared us to death. We eventually came here in a Cessna, with literally only the clothes on our backs, plus the two extra undies I wore while travelling and an aviator that I have now misplaced. Since then, Genie has got me some fine clothes and a pair of sunglasses that make me look like a dudette.
We’ve been around the floating village Kampong Phluk and the nearby lake Tonlé Sap and saw Angkor Wat! And the smaller temples nearby – Ta Prohm and Bayon. They were amazing – of course, aided by the guide's commentary.
The fact that the country is, and has been, Hindu and Buddhist warms our hearts. It is like coming home. Especially when seeing the temples everywhere, even in Phnom Penh. And if you're still unconvinced, wait till you see the Cultural Show, Smile of Angkor, in Siem Reap, about the history and evolution of Cambodia. I had been dismayed that Genie wanted me to see it, with friends of his, but I was hooked from start to finish.
At Pub Street on New Year's eve, in the heart of Siem Reap, we squeezed into a peaceful young crowd, that swayed to Taki Taki and Cambodian pop. We inched through the masses, trying to find an Indian restaurant that time of night, and even though Genie was right behind me, it was the most peaceful and courteous crowd I’ve ever rubbed shoulders with.
If this had been new year's eve in Mumbai, for sure there’d have been alien hands on every part of my body. And I would have been insulted for being loose and out late at night.
Fish were smitten by the guide Genie organised for us on our temple visit day – a sweet Cambodian girl named Suvanna. When they realised she hadn’t eaten breakfast, they tried to ply her with fruits and juices. They insisted she hold them up close to the murals in Angkor Wat, because they saw fish and other water beings carved into the walls – in scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana.
They threw dirty looks at me when I offered to hold them up. So I held onto Penaaz and Genie and I backed away and went off to look at the rest of the temples. Then we crouched over the spot that is supposed to be the centre of the earth. Genie placed his compass at the spot – the needle shivered and spun, but did not stop moving.
The best part of the trip is that Genie has an outing planned for us every day. But, I think Fish are being their uber fractious souls.
Every morning there are little chits of pink paper on Genie's bedside table. Yesterday one was folded back into a rocket shape and balanced on a book. When I sniffed it, it smelt of kebabs.
I tried to open the pink letter, but I heard Genie's throat clear and hurriedly threw it away.
You remember what happened the last time I looked at one of their pink demands. War broke out at home. In any case, my silly neighbour from across, with her massive unfettered breasts swinging in my face, tried to barge in, saying there was too much of a racket.
I wonder what she was trying to achieve by entering. How did she plan to subdue Fish? I dearly wanted to watch her try.
She got upset when I offered her the pair of spare Emirates ear plugs Roma had given me years ago. I have new ones now.
Zeba grabbed the ear plugs and threw it angrily into the flat behind me. I was shocked. So arrogant!!! She tried to step in, to complain to Genie personally, she said, but I used the basketball block and she bounced backwards unexpectedly into the hall.
“Genie's on an indefinite holiday in Sweden,” I said, irritated up to my eyeballs. How dare she treat me so!
“You’re lying,” Zeba said. “I saw him here this morning!”
Shit. “Where?” I asked pseudo imperiously.
“He was making tea! Don’t you have any shame – making a fine man like that slave in your kitchen?!”
“No. I don’t.”
“What is he doing in your flat anyway.”
“He’s my employee.”
There was applause from Fish when I finally wrestled the door shut, but I was worn out. I hate the bitches of Peaceful Society. I have looked at buying another home, but I don’t have the money. So for now, here I am. Peaceful Society, I want to learn how to stick uncomfortably in your throat.
So, back to Cambodia. Some of Fish's demands were related to the local market.
Though we bought a packet of it, I couldn’t bring myself to eat the fried locusts. I’m not even sure they were fried. I never asked. Donny bravely took a bite and left it at that. He said it was an acquired taste.
Genie ate lots of local fruit. It came in all sizes. Mangoes grow year round. And even if a fruit isn't in season, you can get a dried version of it on the street or in the market.
We tried to be adventurous and ate local food wherever we could, on the long drive from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, but we stayed hungrier than we intended. Though we were often surprised by some dishes we discovered accidentally.
And some very sad news.
I discovered today, I am three kgs heavier. I do not blame it on Cambodia. It’s my life's excesses.
Toodles. Until my next soul-racking update.
******
It's so strange to get back together after so long. I’m using a fake Mont Blanc pen to scribble in you. From Orussey Market – 20 dollars only, after some bargaining.
Do I still have my old journal? Will have to hunt for it. Hope no one's looked through it. Hope there’s no incriminating stuff.
I know I took a break... I shouldn’t have... when my marriage unravelled and Amma, and then Appa, died. They always told me to be strong, but...
I saw ‘his’ sister the other day. Didn’t have a choice. My cousin asked me to visit and attend church with her and who did we see looking at us in shock from a crowded pew near the door – the He Devil's very own evil sibling.
My cousin Roma smiled at her and, despite there being other vacant spots in the crowded church, sat next to my former sister in law. What an uncomfortable Sunday service it was.
When I asked Roma why she did that, she said, “That was the best spot in church – right under the fan and the doorway next to us if we wanted to leave early. Plus, I wanted to piss her off!”
I need to take a page out of Roma's book – to teach people that good manners doesn’t mean weakness.
This is a fictional series surrounding the narrator, a divorcée who lives in the distant suburbs of Mumbai, her ex manservant, a former underworld don turned world traveller, and a school of vocal, irascible fish.
Anyway, here I am now with Fish, Genie, Nobby and Donny, a new friend from the North Pole. That’s an interesting story and you might have wanted to be there – in the thick of it. I did have a good Christmas – the ‘family’ turned up – and now I'm having a better New Year. Genie has taken us to Cambodia. He says it is his New Year’s gift to us. So be it. What a lovely gift.
We were led to believe we were going up in a deadbeat World War 1 Fokker, but Genie played us. Scared us to death. We eventually came here in a Cessna, with literally only the clothes on our backs, plus the two extra undies I wore while travelling and an aviator that I have now misplaced. Since then, Genie has got me some fine clothes and a pair of sunglasses that make me look like a dudette.
We’ve been around the floating village Kampong Phluk and the nearby lake Tonlé Sap and saw Angkor Wat! And the smaller temples nearby – Ta Prohm and Bayon. They were amazing – of course, aided by the guide's commentary.
 |
| At left, tourists climbing the stairs for a view from Angkor Wat's top. Top right, the view most tourists want of Angkor Wat. Bottom, the carvings on the wall of the Ramayana and Mahabharata. (Photos: A. Peter) |
The fact that the country is, and has been, Hindu and Buddhist warms our hearts. It is like coming home. Especially when seeing the temples everywhere, even in Phnom Penh. And if you're still unconvinced, wait till you see the Cultural Show, Smile of Angkor, in Siem Reap, about the history and evolution of Cambodia. I had been dismayed that Genie wanted me to see it, with friends of his, but I was hooked from start to finish.
At Pub Street on New Year's eve, in the heart of Siem Reap, we squeezed into a peaceful young crowd, that swayed to Taki Taki and Cambodian pop. We inched through the masses, trying to find an Indian restaurant that time of night, and even though Genie was right behind me, it was the most peaceful and courteous crowd I’ve ever rubbed shoulders with.
If this had been new year's eve in Mumbai, for sure there’d have been alien hands on every part of my body. And I would have been insulted for being loose and out late at night.
Fish were smitten by the guide Genie organised for us on our temple visit day – a sweet Cambodian girl named Suvanna. When they realised she hadn’t eaten breakfast, they tried to ply her with fruits and juices. They insisted she hold them up close to the murals in Angkor Wat, because they saw fish and other water beings carved into the walls – in scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana.
They threw dirty looks at me when I offered to hold them up. So I held onto Penaaz and Genie and I backed away and went off to look at the rest of the temples. Then we crouched over the spot that is supposed to be the centre of the earth. Genie placed his compass at the spot – the needle shivered and spun, but did not stop moving.
 |
| Clockwise from left. Ta Prohm temple, a silvery Spung tree, that's the colour, it looks silver. Apparently it's found in many East Asian countries. At bottom, our sweet guide Suvanna. (Photos: A. Peter) |
 |
| An apsara and Angkor Wat. (Photos: A. Peter) |
The best part of the trip is that Genie has an outing planned for us every day. But, I think Fish are being their uber fractious souls.
Every morning there are little chits of pink paper on Genie's bedside table. Yesterday one was folded back into a rocket shape and balanced on a book. When I sniffed it, it smelt of kebabs.
I tried to open the pink letter, but I heard Genie's throat clear and hurriedly threw it away.
You remember what happened the last time I looked at one of their pink demands. War broke out at home. In any case, my silly neighbour from across, with her massive unfettered breasts swinging in my face, tried to barge in, saying there was too much of a racket.
I wonder what she was trying to achieve by entering. How did she plan to subdue Fish? I dearly wanted to watch her try.
She got upset when I offered her the pair of spare Emirates ear plugs Roma had given me years ago. I have new ones now.
Zeba grabbed the ear plugs and threw it angrily into the flat behind me. I was shocked. So arrogant!!! She tried to step in, to complain to Genie personally, she said, but I used the basketball block and she bounced backwards unexpectedly into the hall.
“Genie's on an indefinite holiday in Sweden,” I said, irritated up to my eyeballs. How dare she treat me so!
“You’re lying,” Zeba said. “I saw him here this morning!”
Shit. “Where?” I asked pseudo imperiously.
“He was making tea! Don’t you have any shame – making a fine man like that slave in your kitchen?!”
“No. I don’t.”
“What is he doing in your flat anyway.”
“He’s my employee.”
There was applause from Fish when I finally wrestled the door shut, but I was worn out. I hate the bitches of Peaceful Society. I have looked at buying another home, but I don’t have the money. So for now, here I am. Peaceful Society, I want to learn how to stick uncomfortably in your throat.
So, back to Cambodia. Some of Fish's demands were related to the local market.
Though we bought a packet of it, I couldn’t bring myself to eat the fried locusts. I’m not even sure they were fried. I never asked. Donny bravely took a bite and left it at that. He said it was an acquired taste.
Genie ate lots of local fruit. It came in all sizes. Mangoes grow year round. And even if a fruit isn't in season, you can get a dried version of it on the street or in the market.
We tried to be adventurous and ate local food wherever we could, on the long drive from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, but we stayed hungrier than we intended. Though we were often surprised by some dishes we discovered accidentally.
And some very sad news.
I discovered today, I am three kgs heavier. I do not blame it on Cambodia. It’s my life's excesses.
Toodles. Until my next soul-racking update.
******
 |
| A better look at a Spung tree. In the sunlight it looks like it is painted with silver paint. (Photo: A. Peter) |
 |
| Siem Reap's Pub Street on New Year's eve. (Photo: A. Peter) |
Very well written , you've melded the travelogue and fishy chronicles well - Sra
ReplyDeleteThanks Sra
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